Jūrtaka - Dabas skaistums

The Latvian-Lithuanian border post is the starting point of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route in Latvia. It goes through the Pape Nature Park crossing a wide beach bathed by the Great Sea along beautiful foredunes overgrown with sand ryegrass and marram grass. This stretch is characterized by a pebbly beach, small peat outcrops and untouched wilderness. By taking a stroll near the Pape Canal you can see a typical landscape of the Piejūra lowlands with Lake Pape hidden in the reeds. The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route winds through Pape village and returns to the beach at the Pape Lighthouse.

Throughout this section, the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route stretches alongside a beach. In the surroundings of Pape, the coastal side of the beach is surrounded by beautiful foredunes, while further away from the village it transforms into a washed away shore of nearly 10 km with broken pine trees lying across it. Gently sloping dunes reappear near Jūrmalciems. After passing Jūrmalciems, the wide silted beaches continue, but when coming closer to Cape Bernāti, an astounding bluff rises before your eyes which is overgrown with a pine forest and occasionally washed away.

This beach is rarely visited by people and you can gather pieces of amber and little stones with fossils and hear the singing sand beneath your feet. Near Ziemupe, beautiful bluffs appear, but further on near Akmensrags and Pāvilosta there are beautiful, occasionally washed off foredunes overgrown with sand ryegrass and marram grass. In some places, you can see grey dunes. The Akmeņrags Lighthouse will serve as a good place to rest. Pāvilosta, with its provincial charm and the scent of the harbor and smoked fish will bring you back from wilderness to civilization.

To the northeast of Pāvilosta, there are excellent views of the grey dunes, while only a couple of kilometers further you can see the beginning of one of the most beautiful sections the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route with outstanding bluffs continuing for more than 20 km. The most interesting bluff scenery is located near Strante and Ulmale villages and the estuary of the Rīva River. In many places, orchids bloom on the lower part of coastal landslides in summer. In Jūrkalne and in its surroundings, you can see “two sunsets”: the first one from the beach and the second one from the top of the bluff a couple of moments later.

The astounding bluffs of the Baltic Sea continue in this section of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route. Near Ošvalki village, it descends turning into a steeper foredune covered in thick osier wreaths, while opposite to Sārnate village distinct bluffs reappear. Here in this comparatively short walking section you can see several impressive sceneries.

Near Sārnate, you can still see the bluffs of the Baltic Sea, which slowly become lower towards the North and is replaced by a washed away dam of foredunes. Between Vendzavas village and the Užava Lighthouse, you can see coastal sceneries that are quite unusual for Latvia and that remind one of sandy and rocky deserts with sparse vegetation: it used to be a firing ground for the Soviet army. In this place and in the territories of former firing grounds located beyond the Užava Lighthouse, there are now grey foredunes. Getting closer to the estuary of the Užava River, the beach becomes wider and the dunes – lower. The most beautiful scenery of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route can be seen from the top of the romantic Užava Lighthouse.

When climbing down to the beach of Staldzene, you can already see a bluff that is a couple of meters high and occasionally barren and that gradually becomes higher and higher (the peak point is Kokkalns, at 29 m). 3-4 km to the SE of Staldzene, a narrow section of beach with a bluff has formed, bathed by the waves during strong winds. After passing Liepene, the washed away coastline is slowly becoming lower and beyond Jaunupe, all the way to Cape Oviši, wide beaches have formed with the widest area situated at the tip of Cape Oviši.

The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route leads through the Oviši Nature reserve where the typical coastal scenery is formed by wide sandy beaches and dunes. Here, the materials naturally found on the beach, the pebbles and sand, create big natural mosaics. In Lūžņa village, military objects from different periods are of interest to visitors, yet near the estuary of the Lūžupe River the seasonal closure must be observed in order to protect the nesting birds: it is prohibited to go there from 01.04. to 01.08. You must go around this place by following the indications marked in the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route. The destination of the itinerary, the Miķeļbāka Lighthouse, can be seen from afar.

Starting from Miķeļtornis up to the turn towards the cable bridge over the Irbe River, a wide beach with low, sparse foredunes lays before your eyes. For ~ 4,5 km, the itinerary goes around the estuary of the Irbe River where a seasonal closure is in force in order to protect nesting birds and where it is forbidden to enter from 01.04. to 1.08. By taking a detour, the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route passes through a beautiful pine forest with high dunes the slopes of which are rich with mushrooms and berries. After passing the estuary of the Irbe River and as far as Sīkrags village, you will find a stretch of wide sandy beach and ~ 1 km before reaching Sīkrags you will see the Ķikans brook crossing the beach and marking the border of the Slītere National Park. Also in the territory of Ķikana estuary from 1.04. until 1.08. ~ 600 m long beach and dune section is closed to visitors. During this period, people can cross it along the very shore of the sea without undue delay and keep the dog on a short leash.

The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route winds through small country and forest roads from Saunags village to Vaide village where it returns to the seacoast again. Wide sandy beaches stretch up to Cape Kolka turning into low sparse foredunes; wooded seaside dunes continue behind them. For around 2 km, there are washed away dunes followed by the Dumbrkalni Hills. Cape Kolka, the point where the Great Sea meets the Little Sea, is one of the most popular bird-watching sites on the Baltic seacoast.

At Cape Kolka, when turning towards the Gulf, you can clearly see the difference between the “Great Sea” and the “Little Sea”. The first 10 km of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route lead through the coastal area of the Slītere National Park: first, past pine trees that are washed into the sea, past the building of a former fishing kolkhoz, a ship berth and Ēvaži Bluff which is surrounded by an unusually narrow sandy beach with overhanging black alders. The next section of the trail leading to Ģipka also has a narrow sandy beach with pools created by the rich springfens and the mouths of small streams that are shallow in summer. During Soviet times, the seacoast of the Slītere National Park was a closed territory for two reasons: it was a frontier zone and a nature reserve.

A sandy beach that is not too wide and has beautiful dunes and coastal pine forests stretches from Ģipka to Roja, but before reaching Roja it is overgrown with reeds. Conversely, the section between Roja and the Kaltene Church is one of the most extraordinary parts of the seashore of Latvia, where the coast is notched by small capes and coves with a very narrow beach. All over the coast, there are piles of boulders of different sizes with the green foliage of black alders hanging over them. In some places, the large gnarled root systems of the trees washed ashore rise before your eyes. In some places, an unpaved road goes right along the coast and a lot of former fishermen homesteads are aligned next to it.

A truly multifaceted section of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route in terms of nature, cultural history and scenery. Near Kaltene village, the seashore is speckled with small coves with rocky beaches followed by a thickly overgrown coast where a narrow trail winds its way through reeds and lush vegetation. Further on, the seacoast covered in stones is only a couple of meters wide, in some places it has layers of clay, fields of reeds, in other places, it is carpeted with the algae washed ashore. Sandy beaches with shoals in the sea reappear between Valgalciems village and Mērsrags village. After passing Mērsrags village, the itinerary continues on a road, but when you reach the Lutheran church it turns towards the sea and goes through the coastal meadows as far as the center of Mērsrags village.

A forest trail surrounded by pine trees leads you from the center of the village to the beach. Next, the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route meanders between a rocky seacoast richly overgrown with reeds and other grasses on one side and wooded seaside dunes on the other side. In some places, the beach is paved with small round stones, in other places you can see grey dunes with a rich variety of plants. Near Bērzciems village, there are large coastal meadows with shoals appearing far away in the sea that are suited for birdwatching. Overgrown seacoast continues up to Abragciems village, while from Abragciems to Engure there is a beach.

Initially, the itinerary leads you through the Gauja River levees in Gauja village reaching the estuary of the Gauja River, which is a good place for bird watching. The hike continues along a sandy beach up to the estuary of the Inčupe River, before which you have to turn inland to get to a bridge and to cover the next couple of kilometers across the wooded dune tops of the Sunset Trail with a view of the beach. After crossing the Pēterupe River (cable bridge), the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route continues along the beach and reaches the Sea Park in Saulkrasti.

This section of the seacoast of Vidzeme is of outstanding scenic beauty with a lot of rocky capes and boulders in the sea alternating with small, sandy coves where the small streams and rivulets, which dry out in summer, flow into. Occasionally, the beach is completely covered with the gray backs of stones. In some places, small patches of reeds appear, while near Tūja you will see the first sandstone outcrops.

One of the most beautiful sections of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route, which begins by crossing the Zaķupīte River. Up to the Ķurmrags Lighthouse, there are mostly sandy beaches with small sections of stones. Further on, the Rocky Seashore of Vidzeme starts: capes alternate with small coves, while 4 m high sandstone outcrops emerge on the coast. Sandy beaches continue to prevail after passing Cape Meleki, while before the mouth of the Svētupe River the beach is thickly overgrown and reedy, so it must be bypassed via a forest trail.

The beach between Svētciems village and Salacgrīva is thickly overgrown, so the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route continues on a forest trail meandering among the dunes. To get from Salacgrīva to Kuiviži, you can take the sandy beach or forest trails. From Kuiviži to the Vēverupe River, you have to bypass the Randu Meadows via a forest road located on the east side of the A1 road. After passing the Vēverupe River, the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route returns to a thickly overgrown beach and then leaves it next to the estuary of the Blusupīte River to reach Ainaži Pier by going along Kāpu and Valdemāra iela. You have covered ~ 580 km in Latvia and reached the state border.

Ikla is the start of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route in Estonia. In the section connecting Ikla and Treimani, the route leads you along the old Pärnu–Riga road as meadows and reeds stretch across the seashore. After passing Treimani, the trail turns towards the sea and the next 2,8 km are covered across a narrow, sandy or rocky and occasionally thickly overgrown beach. After bypassing the Orajõe Brook, next to the parking lot the trail returns to the beach followed by a hike of ~ 4 km to Hotel Lepanina. There you will have to return to the old Pärnu–Riga road leading you to Kabli. Several good birdwatching sites are located on the itinerary. The coastal area up to Pärnu is a popular relaxation and swimming area.

This itinerary is particularly recommended for birdwatchers. To cover the section of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route connecting Kabli and the South of Häädemeeste, you will have to take the old Pärnu–Riga road because reedy meadows and lagoons stretch across the seashore. Before reaching Häädemeeste, the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route branches off from the road and meanders through Jaagupi Nature reserve (going around the east side of the village) running up the backs of high dunes and scooting down to the deep troughs between the dunes covered with a sparse pine forest. Here you will find good places for picking berries and mushrooms.

This section of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route is suitable to hardy hikers who like to travel across uninhabited places. The itinerary leads you through Luitemaa Nature reserve with beautiful conifer forests and inland dunes covered with white carpets of reindeer lichen. In the summer and autumn, you will find suitable places for observing birds and animals, as well as picking mushrooms and berries. The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route winds along the west edge of Maarjapeakse Bog and after running through a mosaic of forests and clearings it leads you to Lepaküla and Uulu villages.

The itinerary is suitable for birdwatching. The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route takes roads and trails because coastal meadows, reeds, shallow and overgrown coves cover the seashore. After passing Liu Port, the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route changes its direction several times as the coastline is rugged and difficult to access, so the itinerary must be adapted. The best sightseeing and birdwatching areas are located near Kavaru village, in the surroundings of the Port of Peerni and near Munalaid Harbour where you can see panoramic views of Pärnu Bay and Kihnu Strait with their islands (Sorgu saar, Manilaid, Kihnu) and coastal meadows with cattle grazing there.

Matsi beach is one of the rare sandy beaches in the subsequent section of the trail leading to Haapsalu. The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route takes you on a small stroll through Kulli village and for the next 5 km leads you along small trails surrounded by wide forests and dunes. In autumn, their surroundings are rich in berries and mushrooms. After bypassing Uue-Varbla Manor, the trail reaches Varbla village.

The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route goes along coastal roads, yet the sea is only visible in two places as its shore is dappled with shallow coves, small islets, damp coastal meadows, reeds, lagoons, bogs and lakes that have separated from the sea. In the surroundings of Varbla-Allika, you will see farmland scenery, while the Allika-Tamba section mostly goes through beautiful forests. After bypassing the Paatsalu and Illuste Manors, the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route continues on a road crossing wetlands in Nehatu Nature reserve and near Muriste village it meanders along a road, on the side of which there is an impressive rock fence. Before reaching Pivarootsi Manor, vast pastures and a view of the bay appear in sight.

In this section, an ~ 3,7 km stretch of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route goes along the former Virtsu-Rapla narrow-gauge railway. The most fascinating place in this section is the Puhtulaiu Peninsula: it is an island that has nowadays merged with the continent. It is covered by a broad-leaved forest with interesting plant and mushroom species, giant trees and memorial sites in honour of important people. Ferries go from the Port of Virtsu to Muhu Island which is connected to Saaremaa Island via a dam.

The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route snakes through Virtsu village after which it goes along a motorway for 3 km and then it takes a 90 degree turn towards the northwest, meandering through a wind farm and a former Soviet military airfield, in the surroundings of which orchids bloom beautifully during the summertime. Next, you will see the Suur Väin Strait and beautiful juniper fields. Before reaching the Jõeoja Brook, for ~ 1 km the road goes along the upper part of the ancient seacoast.

The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route goes along small country roads where individual farmsteads and cultivated fields appear in sight. When approaching Matsalu Bay, you will see wetlands: overgrown lakes that have once separated from the sea as bays and coastal meadows ruined by grazing cattle. Near Mõisaküla (the beginning of Matsalu National Park) and Salevere villages, distinct hillocks appear that used to be islands in the Baltic Ice Lake more than 10 000 years ago.

For this day, the start and end point for the current section of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route are located in Matsalu National Park, but the major part of it lies outside the park’s territory. Travellers will have their attention captured by the small villages and country roads with beautiful individual farmsteads and rural landscapes with cows and sheep grazing in the grass, as well as Lihula, the first see of the Bishopric of Saare-Lääne (Ösel–Wiek), which is indirectly mentioned in the Livonian Chronicle of Henry in relation to the events of 1211 when Abbot Theoderich of the Daugavgrīva (near Riga) monastery was ordained as the first Bishop of Estonia.

One of the most beautiful sections of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route in Matsalu National Park, which leads through the agricultural lands and coastal meadows located near Matsalu Bay, where thousands of migrating cranes and geese gather in autumn. There are excellent birdwatching sites with towers near Haeska village (coastal meadows, shallow coves, small islets, cattle pastures) and at Cape Puise (coastal meadows with pastures, shoals). The most panoramic views of the sea and strings of islands can be seen in the surroundings of Põgari-Sassi and Puise nina.

With the exception of the first 3 km, the itinerary goes along the seashore. It is mainly a sandy beach with beautiful foredunes, grey dunes and sea boulders. The beach may be covered in algae that has been washed ashore and it is occasionally overgrown with dense vegetation. Opposite Rooslepa village and in other places in the sea and on the coast, there are badly weathered stones or the so-called breccias that have melted and weathered as a result of an ancient meteorite explosion. At the destination of the itinerary, you can spend some time in a pub and from its terrace you will have a beautiful view of the sea and the port.

An exceptionally multifaceted section of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route in terms of landscapes, where you can already get an insight of the nature characteristic to the north coast of Estonia. The itinerary leads you along the seacoast for almost its entire length, where you will find beautiful sandy beaches near coves, beaches covered in boulders at capes, while dolomite layers uncover themselves in the northern part of Cape Põõsaspea (an excellent birdwatching site). The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route goes through Nõva Nature reserve where you will have exceptional views of the white and grey dunes. The beaches are popular for fishing and kite-boarding.

No Rannaküla, apmetot loku mitrājam, Jūrtaka šķērso Nõva upīti un izved Keibu līča pludmalē (sākumā – aizaugusi), kur plešas smilšains liedags ar kāpām. Pie Keibu strauta tā nogriežas iekšzemē, kur tālāk sakrīt ar Igaunijas valsts mežu marķēto taku: Peraküla – Aegviidu – Ähijärve. Taka izvijas cauri Keibu ciematiņam un iznāk pie jūras iepretim Alliklepa ciemam, kur ir skaisti kadiķu lauki. Tālāk taka ved starp jūru un diviem maziem ezeriņiem, kas kādreiz bijuši līči. Tiem iepretim jūras gultnē atsedzas dolomīts. Tālāk līdz pat Vintse ciemam taka iet pa mazu jūras krasta ceļu (redzamas Pakri salas), līdz nogriežas uz Vihterpalu pusi.

Jūrtaka ved apkārt Pakri pussalai, no kuras klinšainajiem krastiem atklājas skaistākās ziemeļrietumu Igaunijas piekrastes ainavas. Tā iziet cauri Paldiski centram un pie Pētera I cietokšņa bastioniem nogriežas uz Pakri bākas pusi, līdz kurienei virzās pa iespaidīgo Pakri klinšu augšdaļu. Tālāk līdz Kersalu ir gan kāpumi – klintis, gan kritumi, kur Jūrtaka vijas gar smilšaini akmeņainu krastmalu un skaistu priežu mežu. Pakri klintis ir interesantas arī aukstās ziemās, kad šeit veidojas iespaidīgi leduskritumi, gan rudens krāsaino lapu laikā. Maršruts piemērots aktīviem un izturīgiem gājējiem.

Ainaviski daudzveidīgs Jūrtakas posms, kas piemērots izturīgiem gājējiem. Redzamas gan akmeņainas, gan smilšainas pludmales un labas peldvietas, skaisti piekrastes priežu meži, iespaidīgā Türisalu klints siena un dižakmeņi. Pa plašā Keilas Mežaparka takām var aiziet līdz Keilas ūdenskritumam, pie kura uzņemti fragmenti populārajai latviešu mākslas filmai „Vella kalpi”, kā arī iepazīt piekrastes zvejnieku dzīvei veltīto ekspozīciju Lohusalu ciemā.

Viens no sarežģītākajiem Jūrtakas posmiem, piemērots tikai pieredzējušiem gājējiem. Maršruts apmet loku ap Suurupi pussalu, kuras biezie meži slēpj dažādu vēsturisko periodu militāro mantojumu. Jūrtaka līkumo pa aizaugušām un akmeņainām krastmalām, bērzu birzīm, gar bijušajām pionieru nometnēm un smilšakmens klinšu pasargātiem līcīšiem ar asiem zemesragiem. Dažviet jūrā atsedzas dolomīta pamatne, bet citur redzamas laukakmeņu „salas”. Maršruta noslēgumā jūras krastā paceļas viens no iespaidīgākajiem Igaunijas piekrastes atsegumiem – Rannamõisa klintis, no kurām paveras skats uz Kakumäe līci un pussalu un Tallinas vecpilsētas torņiem.

Pametusi Pervalku, Jūrtaka pa gājēju celiņu šķērso Kuršu kāpu austrumu–rietumu virzienā, nonākot Baltijas jūras krastā. Tālākais posms ap 13 km garumā ved pa skaistu, smilšainu pludmali, kuru no austrumiem norobežo augsta un stāva kāpu grēda. Tā ir cilvēku izveidota, lai pasargātu iekšzemi no smilšu kustības. Iepretī Jodkrantei Jūrtaka pagriežas austrumu virzienā un pa mežainu un stāvu kāpu masīvu atkal šķērso Kuršu kāpu, nonākot Kuršu jomas (līča) pusē. Nelielā posmā Jūrtaka sakrīt ar Raganu kalna taku. Tālāk gar Jodkrantes krasta promenādi tā aizved līdz ostai. Posms ietilpst Kuršu kāpu Nacionālajā parkā.

Atstājusi Jodkrantes krasta promenādi, Jūrtaka dienvidaustrumu-ziemeļrietumu virzienā šķērso Kuršu kāpu, virzoties pa mazām meža takām, kuras izvijās pa stāvo, priedēm apaugušo kāpu nogāzēm, līdz atkal iznāk Baltijas jūras krastā. Tālākos 9 km Jūrtaka ved gar krastu pa smilšainām pludmalēm. Austrumu pusē to ieskauj stāva kāpa, kas sargā iekšzemi no kustīgajām smiltīm. Aiz Alksnīnes ciema (no krasta nav redzams) Jūrtaka pagriežas uz austrumiem, šķērso kalnu priežu Pinus mugo audzi un Otrā pasaules kara laika vācu armijas militāro bāzi, līdz pietuvojas Kuršu jomas (līča) krastam. Tālāk Jūrtaka izlokās pa priedēm apaugušu kāpu mugurām, ik pa brīdim atklādama skatus uz Klaipēdas ostu. Maršruts starp Jauno un Veco pārceltuvi sākumā ved pa mazu taku, bet tālāk – pa krasta promenādi. No Vecās pārceltuves šķērsojot Kuršu jomu, Jūrtaka nonāk Klaipēdas centrā, kur gar Danės gatvi aizved līdz Biržas tiltam. Posms līdz Smiltīnei ietilpst Kuršu kāpu Nacionālajā parkā.

Jūrtakas sākums atrodas Rusnes ciemā uz Rusnes salas. Jūrtaka pa Neringos un K. Jukštaičio ielām izved uz Rusnes ciema krasta promenādi, kas stiepjas gar Pakalnes upi  – vienu no Nemunas deltas attekām. Tālāk Jūrtaka izved cauri Rusnes ostiņai un līdz pat Pakalnes ciemam izlokās pa Rusnes polderu dambjiem, atklādama skaistus skatus uz krāsaino salas apbūvi un vītoliem, kas līgst pāri Pakalnes ūdeņiem. Arī aiz Pakalnes ciema līdz pat Uostadvario bākai maršruts g.k. ved pa Rusnes polderu dambjiem, kuri apjož un caurauž zemo salu, (salā ir vieta, kas atrodas zem jūras līmeņa) pasargājot to no applūšanas. No bākas līdz pat Rusnes ciemam (izņemot pašu Uostadvaris ciemu, kur taka iet gar Atmatas upes krasta poldera dambi), Jūrtaka ved gar asfaltētā ceļa malu. Rusnes ciemā pa Kuršmarių un Taikos ielām tā aizved uz sākuma punktu. Rusnes sala atrodas Nemunas deltas reģionālajā parkā. Polderu dambji ir lieliska vieta, no kuriem zemajā līdzenumā var vērot savvaļas dzīvniekus  – stirnas, aļņus un putnus pavasara un rudens migrāciju laikā.

Pa Klaipėdos un Aukštumalės ielām Jūrtaka iziet no Šilutes pilsētas Kintu virzienā (ceļš Nr. 4217), īsu brīdi virzās pa polderu dambja augšpusi (labi redzama Nemunas deltas zemiene, kas pavasaros applūst), izlokās pa lauku ceļu un atkal atgriežas uz Aukštmalės ielas (Nr. 4217). Pēc nepilniem 6 km Rūgailiai ciemā ceļa krustojumā Jūrtaka izmet loku pa kreisi Minijas virzienā, un pēc 1,5 km virzās pa labi, atkal atgriežoties uz Šilutė–Kintai ceļa. Pa augstu un garu tiltu Jūrtaka šķērso Minijas upi un Kintu dīķus. No šejienes paveras viena no neparastākajām Lietuvas piekrastes ainavām ar plašu zemienes un ūdeņu panorāmu. Pirms Poviliai ciema Jūrtaka nogriežas pa kreisi un turpmākos nepilnus 5 km virzās cauri lauksaimniecības zemēm, kur migrāciju laikā var vērot putnus. Tālāk Jūrtaka nogriežas uz piekrastes ceļa (Marių gatve, ceļš Nr. 2201), pa kuru pēc 5 km sasniedz Ventes ragu. No šī ainaviskā ceļa posma paveras plaši skati pāri Kuršu jomai (līča platums šeit ir 8–9 km) uz Kuršu kāpu. Gājējus priecē arī bijušie zvejniekciemi un dažādu krāsu, ar dekoratīviem elementiem rotātās ēkas. Posms ietilpst Nemunas deltas reģionālajā parkā.